New Orleans street names are all over the map. The city came of age under a number of different flags — French, Spanish, American and even Confederate — and the street names are a reminder of that diverse background.

In the Vieux Carre, many streets pay tribute to French royalty.

A hangout for pirates supposedly gave root to Pirate Alley.

Tchoupitoulas is believed to be derived from a Chocktaw word, and other streets are named for plantation families, war heroes, religious figures and Greek muses.

Bayou Road and Grand Route St. John predate the city; the route connecting what became known as Bayou St. John to the Mississippi River was in use by American Indians when French explorers arrived.

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New Orleans was the horse-racing capital of the nation by midcentury.

In 1852, a track opened near the intersection of Gentilly Boulevard and Bayou Road. The Union Race Course later became the Creole Race Course.

In its early years, the track also was the site of races between humans, as well as bullfighting and even bear fights.

The site was hosting festivals as early as the 1850s, featuring music, dancing and sports including shooting and ‘climbing the pole.’

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William Faulkner, describing Jackson Square in his novel Sartoris, written in New Orleans:

“Jackson Square was now a green and quiet lake in which abode lights round as jellyfish, feathering with silver mimosa and pomegranate and hibiscus beneath which lantana and cannas bled and bled. Pontalba and cathedral were cut from black paper and pasted flat on a green sky; above them taller palms were fixed in black and soundless explosions. The street was empty, but from Royal street there came the hum of a trolley that rose to a staggering clatter, passed on and away leaving an interval filled with the gracious sound of inflated rubber on asphalt, like a tearing of endless silk.”

Within earshot of the bells of St. Louis Cathedral, off the bustle of Jackson Square, is Faulkner House Books, a charming new and used bookstore at 624 Pirate’s Alley. It’s appropriately named, as William Faulkner lived here in 1925. Within eight months of moving in, he had written and published his first novel,

He came to New Orleans an unrecognized poet of 27 and left for Paris a year later a literary up-and-comer.

Despite the sober nature of his first novel, Faulkner in person could be mischievous. He was known to shoot passersby with BB guns, alongside friend and artist William Spratling. He also was a part of a foot race over rooftops in the Quarter.

Though Faulkner didn’t live here until 1925, he was no stranger to New Orleans. From 1921 to 1923, he worked occasionally for a local bootlegger, bringing alcohol across Lake Pontchartrain.

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Preservation Hall at 50

“Ladies and gentlemen, welcome to Preservation Hall.”

The greeting comes, as it always does, minutes after 8 p.m. On this brisk Wednesday night in May, Erin Alexander delivers it to a capacity crowd, which at 726 St. Peter St. means a 100 or so people, most of them out-of-towners. Those fortunate to have made it inside first sit cross-legged at the front of the 620-square-foot, 31-by-20 foot living room, knees almost touching the four-chair front line, backs pressed against three packed rows of benches, with a forest of people on tiptoes behind that. Another dozen fill the side porte-cochere, either packed in the narrow doorway or seated on the banquette next to one of the Hall’s resident white cats, Sweet Sage, who despite the commotion is sound asleep. Outside the gate, half as many more remain in line, waiting for the 9 p.m. second set and their turn.

Alexander, the girlfriend of Hall publicity and marketing head Ron Rona (aka New Orleans Bingo! Show MC Ronnie Numbers), next informs the visitors of some basic house rules, largely unaltered since 1961: no flash photography, no video recording. (Smoking also has joined the outlawed list; beverages, never offered by the Hall and previously forbidden, now are allowed, and some listeners hold Pat O’Brien’s plastic Hurricane cups.) At 8:15 p.m., the portico crowd parts for the seven members of the band, clad in jet black suits and crisp white shirts, carrying their instruments and proceeding one-by-one into the rapidly warming room: singer and trumpeter Mark Braud, the group’s youngest member at 37; singer and clarinetist Charlie Gabriel, at 78 its eldest; singer and tenor saxophonist Clint Maedgen; trombonist Freddie Lonzo; and Benjamin Jaffe, his tuba shouldered. Rickie Monie and Joe Lastie Jr. — the pianist and the percussionist, respectively — enjoy the easiest walk.

Nodding and smiling at the audience and at each other, the musicians take their seats. Three shoe taps, a drum roll and a trumpet charge, and they’re off.

A week later and a world away, Ben Jaffe is giving an interview from the back of a New York City taxicab.

“One of the things as a traveling musician that I find very challenging, when you’re on the road, playing one-night shows every night of the year, is the satisfaction you get when you actually sit down and breathe and let ideas come into your head,” Jaffe, the Hall’s creative director since 1993, says over the din of traffic. “Most of the time you’re just worried about how you’re going to get from point A to point B. You’re like, I got to get in a taxi, I got to do a sound check, I got a show, then I got to do an interview, then I have to go to sleep because I have to be up at 4 in the morning to catch a flight. That’s your job, just going from A to B. The only moment you get to go into this creative cocoon is when you perform, and I want to amplify that. I want to make it bigger.”

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Once it was Plessy versus Ferguson. Now it’s Plessy and Ferguson. Keith Plessy, the decedent of the man who tested Louisiana’s law requiring separate railroad cars for whites and blacks, and Pheobe Ferguson, the great-great-granddaughter of the judge who upheld it, chatted about how they came together to create the The Plessy and Ferguson Foundation.

Keith Plessy

Keith M. Plessy, is a longtime bellman at The Marriott hotel. He is a native of New Orleans and a graduate of John McDonogh High School and NOCCA – the New Orleans Center for Creative Arts. When he was a student at Valena C. Jones Elementary School in the 1960s, Keith discovered he had a famous last name. A gifted artist, he was recruited to return to Valena C. Jones elementary school in 1979 to paint more than a hundred portraits of civil rights leaders on the interieror walls of the school, His paintings are still there today. Currently, as president of the Plessy and Ferguson Foundation, Keith works tirelessly reaching out to civil rights leaders, activists, and community members to let them know about the foundation and to seek their input and guidance in developing programs.

Phoebe Ferguson

Phoebe Ferguson is a New Orleans native. She worked as a successful photographer and filmmaker in New York City for 20 years, before returning home. Right after Katrina, she drove a truck full of supplies from Brooklyn, New York to the families in her film, who lost everything during the storm. Eight months later, she moved back to her roots to finish her documentary,Member of the Club, and start a new life as co-founder of The Plessy and Ferguson Foundation. Ms. Ferguson’s special interests are equity in education and developing programs that make history, not about someone else’s past, but who you are now and what your legacy will be.

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PEOPLE’S REACTIONS

Do people often think that you should not like each other?

    A.KEITH PLESSY :I think people are more impressed that we formed this foundation and decided to work together.  Less people come up and say things like that, but we have had those strange quesitons.

    One lady asked me “Don’t you hate Ferguson?”  I said no, in fact, Phoebe Ferguson is my friend!  We want to make in our time a new history about those two names.  We want to make the joining of those names the best thing that ever happened to them.

    We consider our foundation our big child that we have adopted that we intend to raise and bring up right.  We try not to do things without the other and do everything together if we can.

    PHOEBE FERGUSON :Yes, often. It always surprises us. I mean, it has been a long time, and well, we weren’t actually there. But at the same time, we understand it, too. I still feel the weight of the past and my link to it. But when they ask Keith why he isn’t mad at me; he says, “because I wasn’t raised that way.” If you could meet Keith Plessy, you would know right away why I cannot be mad at him.

    – June 06, 2011 2:43 PM

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    How to Rock Seersucker

    For sartorial traditionalists, the first weekend in May, when the Kentucky Derby takes place, ushers in the start of seersucker weather.

    Seersucker, a striped cotton fabric with a slightly wrinkled surface, connotes Southern gentlemen in a full suit with white bucks, but with men’s fashion enjoying a preppy moment, young men can find fresh ways to wear seersucker without looking like their grandfathers.

    Sometimes it’s as simple as breaking up the suit, says Jeffrey Ammeen, design director at the century-old menswear company Haspel. Mr. Ammeen, a former professional musician who still plays lead guitar in a band, considers himself a non-traditionalist. He owns four seersucker suits and prefers his “tea-stained” versions, in which the white stripes are more off-white; softening the white stripes gives the fabric a more vintage feel.

    For daytime, Mr. Ammeen likes to wear a blazer in a tea-stained, blue-striped seersucker, which he pairs with jeans and a T-shirt or button-down shirt and moccasins or even black sneakers. “I’ll keep the shirt generally solid, or I’ll do a micro-pattern because the jacket is really taking center stage,” he says. “Because of the stripes and the feeling of the jacket, that’s really what’s going to grab your eyes.”

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    The 21st-Century Snoball

    For Metairie native Lori Mascaro, summer evenings growing up during the early 1970s meant walking to a nearby sno-ball stand, often barefoot and usually with a gaggle of siblings and young neighbors. Some always ordered the same flavor, she recalls, while others, night by night, progressed alphabetically through the many colorful varieties. Forty years later, Mascaro’s enthusiasm for sno-balls not only remains, it has been empowered by the eager sno-ball enabler she found in her husband Matt. Sometimes they have sno-balls for dinner.

    Plenty of New Orleanians share this passion and would likely tip their sno-ball cups to Mascaro. Uniquely local — stands are embedded in neighborhoods and found everywhere — and often misunderstood by outsiders, the cheap, garishly-colored, ubersugary sno-ball is more than an icy treat. It’s a way of life in New Orleans, part of this city’s hands-on culture and an obsession some New Orleanians never outgrow.

    “In New Orleans, people have a sno-ball like other people have a coffee,” says Ashley Hansen, who runs Hansen’s Sno-Bliz, the legendary Uptown sno-ball business her late grandparents Mary and Ernest Hansen started in 1939. “You see fathers and daughters coming in together, people come from the office, it’s an outing where you get a sno-ball and you catch up. Sometimes you look around and there isn’t a single kid in line here.”

    But if you’ve been visiting the same sno-ball stand for years, you might be missing out: Like every other New Orleans food, sno-balls are evolving as people experiment and put their own spins on the frozen treat. A sour pickle sno-ball, anyone?

    As Marcel Proust had his madeleine and all the memories called forth by that pastry, local corporate communications consultant Jim Lestelle has the sno-ball, especially those from a stand located just two blocks from his childhood home in Old Metairie during the 1950s. He’s forgotten the name of that stand but none of the excitement of visiting.

    “The ordering windows always seemed so high off the ground, and the man behind the counter so larger than life,” he says. “I would plunk my dime on the counter way above my head and call out to sometimes-unseen figures, ‘I want a 10-cent red, please,’ because ‘red’ was my favorite ‘flavor.’ Once, the owner allowed me inside the stand to operate what seemed like a giant crank on the ice-shaving machine. I was in heaven.”

    Such memories penetrate many New Orleanians’ brains like the sweetest syrup plunging through the sno-ball cup. It’s the sugary aroma of the flavors perfuming the air around sno-ball stands. It’s the chugging and whupping of the sno-ball machines. It’s the sound of the screen door slapping shut at Hansen’s, the log seating arrayed around Sal’s Sno-Balls on Metairie Road and the Chinese food take-out containers into which Williams Plum Street Snowballs dispenses its “pail sized” treasures. It’s the excitement that mounts along the hairpin turns of Jefferson Highway in Harahan as the family car approaches the neon-lit facade of Ro-Bear’s Snowballs, and it’s the thrill for children of being able to buy sno-balls with their own hoarded change.

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    “Actually, it’s a potential life-changing experience,” replied Danny Clinch, when asked what someone can expect when visiting the legendary jazz venue, Preservation Hall in New Orleans for the very first time. And honestly, I couldn’t agree more.

    Clinch, a photographer, filmmaker, and musician, recently finished filming a documentary about the Preservation Hall Jazz Band, who performed alongside the band My Morning Jacket on an album benefiting Preservation Hall. The film titled, “Live at Preservation Hall – Louisiana Fairytale” made its world premiere last month at Austin’sSouth By Southwest film festival (watch an exclusive clip of the film here.)

    “Have you ever been there?” he asked.  In fact, I have. I visited the hall during Jazz Festback in 2004, before Katrina hit. I can recall it vividly: It was a surprisingly small venue within the French Quarter, with only a few benches and cushions on the floor for seating and standing room only in the back. There was no bar and a few ceiling fans did little to cut through the thick air. From the moment I stepped into that hall and the band started to play, I felt as though I were stepping back in time; stepping back into the days of Louis Armstrong, Buddy Bolden, Jelly Roll Morton, and Sweet Emma Barrett. Clinch’s film not only does an exceptional job of transporting you to this legendary Louisiana space, but it also gives an intimate look into the lives of the musicians and the history of the hall.

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    NEW ORLEANS — District C Councilmember Kristin Gisleson Palmer said the city council will vote Thursday on officially restoring the name of Congo Square.

    “Congo Square is a very important part of our city’s history and culture. It is a place where enslaved Africans celebrated their heritage through song and dance,” Palmer said in a press release.
    For 100 years, the official name of a small section of Armstrong Park has been “Beauregard Square,” in honor of Louisiana’s best known Confederate General, P.G.T. Beauregard. The name could soon change to Congo Square, as it is commonly known, in honor of African-American slaves.
    Palmer said the name restoration is symbolic of what New Orleans should be proud of.
    “By restoring the name, Congo Square will continue to be remembered for the birthplace of the culture and music of New Orleans,” Palmer said.

    However, Palmer said it will continue to be closed because Armstrong Park, where Congo Square is located, is still not open to the public and hasn’t been since it was damaged in Hurricane Katrina.

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    Louisiana’s Zydeco Trail

    I HAD never noticed how closely the syncopated rhythm of zydecomusic echoes the rollicking stumble of horses on rough terrain. But on a September afternoon in the piney woods of Evangeline Parish, in Louisiana’s Cajun country, with hundreds of dusty horseback riders moving down a narrow trail, the kinship was impossible to miss. As the horses followed a tractor towing a D.J. and a zydeco-blaring sound system, they bucked and swayed in a cadence fit for the barroom floors of Lafayette, 70 miles away.

    Eventually the riders — young and old, encumbered by cold beers or small children — reached a large clearing in the middle of the woods, which quickly filled with horses, flatbeds, wagons and buggies as the music continued to throb. People sold barbecue sandwiches and turkey legs from the backs of pick-up trucks. A group of women piled out of a wagon and serenely performed a line dance in the dust. Young people sang and flirted and held up their beers with a “Wooo!”

    The clearing was the halfway point of the Pineywoods Trail Ride, one of a circuit of zydeco trail rides that take place in the countryside around Lafayette and in many parts of Texas from Mardi Gras through early December. Exuberant, untouched by corporate sponsors and run by a close-knit network of people who price their beer at $2 a can, the rides are a traditional way to celebrate the cowboy culture of rural blacks or Creoles (commonly understood as a mixture of black with French, Spanish and/or Native American ancestry).

    Originally small affairs among relatives and neighbors, the rides have evolved over decades into organized events with a dedicated following, though they have remained largely unknown to outsiders. In recent years, trail rides have surged in popularity among rural youth, as zydeco musicians have incorporated strains of R&B and hip-hop, attracting a new generation for whom Creole is suddenly cool.

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